A Travellerspoint blog

By this Author: 2kiwicompaneros

Sunsets, Sours and Serpents

Living it up on Lake Titicaca


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When researching our journey, the border crossing from Peru to Bolivia seems to encounter its fair share of horror stories – involving solo travellers and corrupt officials, and our taxi driver tells us its a regular occurrence for both Bolivia and Peru, unless there’s a senior officer at the border. For this reason Jo opted for the Bolivia Hop Bus Co. to take us from Cusco, as they make crossing the transfer a lot less of a hassle for unwitting tourists and needless to say our first ever border crossing went through without a hitch. Our first stop in Bolivia is a quick break in Copacabana, before catching the 1 ½ hour boat ride out to the idyllic Isle del Sol, where, according to legend, life on earth began on the island and spread outwards, the 2 statues flanking the stairway to the fountain of youth are the local equivalent of Adam and Eve. There is apparently a cave in the North of the island leading into the lake, the entrance to 1 of 3 lost Andean cities local legends claim pre date known history by tens of thousands of years, this one and another beneath Salar de Uyuni hidden during the seismic upheaval that pushed these 2 lakes to the altitude they now sit.

Ciao Peru / Reliving Titanic en-route / Panorama from the Jetty

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Departing the boat you’re greeted with numerous lodges and hostels upon the east facing hill, with views to the sacred Mt Illumpa, the tranquillity of an island with no motor vehicles permeated with the gently tapping of a distant hammer, and the relaxed chatter of the islands inhabitants. Accommodation can be found instantly on the shore, however once Jo realised the possibility of a sunset view from the top, our path was set with a disturbingly steep climb. During our trip upwards we encountered large discrepancies in price and quality of hostels, ask to see the rooms and shop around if you can handle the walk, we found a few places that thought a little too highly of their rooms, plus there’s plenty of options on the island, especially in the quiet season. Laden with our packs it was a painful climb to the top, a fact made worse by elderly residents with equally heavy loads overtaking us on the path. Yet numerous breaks to fill the aching lungs, and the vision of a sunset room, 45min later we were at the summit. (With no vehicles on the island so the only way up is to walk, you could attempt to bribe one of the donkeys) We reached the top of Yamani and immediately found IntiKala Hostel, our persistence paying off with an en-suited bedroom looking out over the western shore of the lake. It was slightly more expensive than some of the others at 160 Bs’ for the night ( only $35ish NZ), but hey, you only live once right. And apart some dodgy looking wiring in the shower head (we found out this is normal here, but still wore rubber jandals for insurance ), provided a fantastic base for exploring the island. With Pachamama restaurant right next door and serving a fresh trout dish for 35 Bs’, we were set for a front row seat watching the sun go down. Just after sunset we witnessed a number of dark objects gliding slowly in the harbour below – comparing the size to the anchored boats they would have been easily the size of humans. Our fellow diners had seen them also, reducing the chance of hallucination, and upon enquiry with a local, we were told they are snakes. Although summoning the Almighty Google revealed nothing on the topic, a separate conversation with a guide in Bolivia backed the story, there is writing of them in books .There’s old Incan ruins and a few little villages to explore on the island, but we’re planning on using the 2 days here to eat well, catch up on sleep, and with a view like this to sip Pascena’s and Pisco Sours to….. why the hell not.

Sunset / ......and Sunrise / Restaurant Under Construction / Inti Kala Hostel ( Rear View) / This is The Good Life / Easier Going Down

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FYI- Despite Jo’s assurance, there’s no ATM on the island, nor money exchange. As our 350 B’s dwindled we were fortunate enough to swap some USD at a slightly undesirable rate, at one of the local restaurants.

Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 13:11 Archived in Bolivia Tagged sunset lake sunrise del relaxing titicaca sol isle Comments (0)

Ciao Peru, Ola Bolivia.

Sadly our brief trip to Cusco is coming to an end, a relaxing day spent nursing the body from yesterday’s climb, bartering with vendors for trademark souvenirs for the kids, and culminating in a slight over-indulgence of Cusquena- the local ‘cerveza’ (evidently not the smartest idea before departing on an overnight bus). The discovery of the day was waffle battered hotdogs and beef empanadas, both dishes New Zealand would do well to embrace. An unfortunate lack of leg room resulted in an almost sleepless night en-route to Puno, redeemed by coffee and an early boat ride to the islands of Uros on Lake Titicaca, at 3800m the highest navigable lake. Made up woven reeds the 2000 odd inhabitants live on approximately 120 islands. Although seeing how the islands were constructed was great, the overall feel was tourist trap. Flat screen TVs in the huts, sweet shop and overpriced “island made” goods (available everywhere in Puno) followed by an under-enthused farewell song, inclined towards a façade for the travellers. That said the sculptures and doubled- hulled boats the islanders craft from the reeds is worth the cost of the trip out.

Panorama Lake Titicaca / "Mercedes Benz" of the Island Boats / Reed Islands

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Stopping in Puno was a last minute addition to our itinerary, added in for a trip to Aramu Muru. 65kms towards the town of Juli, our wonderful taxi driver from earlier offered to take us out and show us around the site. 500m from the main highway is an out of place collection of red boulders, mysteriously carved into the face of one is a giant square, with vertical channels and a recessed ‘doorway’. Said to be the spot the priest Aramu Muru disappeared with Golden Sun Disc, and possibly pre-dating the Incans, there are no known remains of civilisation nearby. Reminiscent of Castle Hill in New Zealand, a climb to the top offered a stunning 360 degree view of the area, across the Andes and Lake Titicaca.
Divine intervention to keep us at the site came in the form of a dead car battery in the taxi, through the international sign for “I have a flat battery, do you have jumper leads and can I have a start?”, I was able to communicate with a French couple (thank you charades, those well-honed skills from dinner party evenings win again). Our return to Puno signified our first ever drug checkpoint!!!-Picture 20 national cops, all packing heat, spread across the road as a fairly intimidating traffic stop. Fortunately our passports had no Bolivian stamp and after a quick sweep we were pronounced clean. – I forget we’re in the land of cocaine, which incidentally, we got offered on our last night in Cusco …“What’s he talking about? Who the hell is Charlie?” “He’s talking about coke.”
San Antonio Suites was one of the best places we’ve stayed, and I base that statement entirely on the breakfast they offered, an endless spread of scrambled eggs, ham and cheese toasties, cereal, coffee, fresh juice and mango smoothies, and in season fruit salad. I would stay in Puno again just for this place.
Back on the Bolivia Hop bus (and this one was first class, double decked, footrests and movies) travelling in style towards our first border crossing, ending our short but colourful visit to Peru.

Aramu Muru / View From The Top / Stone Gateway

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Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 13:43 Archived in Bolivia Tagged islands lake titicaca puno uros reed aramu muru Comments (0)

Macchu Picchu

Made It

semi-overcast 15 °C
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Our trip to Machu Picchu was the pinnacle of our South American adventure and consequentially what we based the rest of our itinerary around. It’s been on the bucket list for me since I was 8 years old, the iconic photographs of the lost city emerging from the clouds capturing the imagination, lying dormant for the 23 years it’s taken to finally arrive here. Getting there is an experience in itself, we booked our tickets months in advance, 2500 people are allowed on the mountain per day and only 2 groups of 200 for the Huaynapicchu climb, both sell out. We took the PeruRail train from Ollantaytambo after our trip in the Sacred Valley, synchronising our arrival in Aguas Calientes with a torrential downpour. A wise local woman must have read the signs, her smile ever-growing as the overpriced plastic ponchos in her basket were snapped up by the dozen. As the crowds disembarked with their chaffeurs, the realisation dawned that we had selected the only hostel not offering a pick up service. With clichéd wide brimmed hats keeping the faces dry, and bright yellow ponchos covering our belongings, and the directions of more than a couple of locals, we opened the door of our hostel to find candles as the only source of light and buckets collecting the leaks inside. Save for the downpour outside we would have found other digs, and the hostels saving grace came with a much appreciated high pressure, HOT shower ( can be very sporadic in Peru), and some of the comfiest beds we have experienced, (they also stored our bags while up the mountain). We are not religious people in the least, yet both found ourselves praying to some divine presence to get the weather out of his system tonight- we’ve travelled far too many kilometres for the weather to obstruct the view.
4 hours of blissful slumber later, we awoke to hear the first birds singing and what appeared to be the beginnings of blue sky. (at 0415 in the morning it can be hard to tell). Someone had answered our prayers. Although we were at the station at 0515 we didn’t get on until the fifth bus (apparently others were just as keen). The ride up the zigzag road to the city was filled with anticipation, with glimpses of the iconic terraces that follows the mountains contours, coming into view around the turns. After another queue waiting for the gates to open we were finally climbing the stone path towards the guardhouse, Atop the platform our eyes were finally treated to a full view of the ruins, flanked on both sides by heavy mists. Picture Perfect. Words couldn’t do justice to experiencing this place, if you’ve ever had an inkling to go, DO IT. Nestled into a saddle between the two peaks, with steep bush covered mountains for the backdrop, the city continuously retreats into the mist, reappearing to show off it’s impressive layout and stonework, instilling intrigue and mystery to its creation, history and demise.

We're Here! ( Yes, we climbed that big bugger behind us) / First Impressions of the Lost City
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We set off for Wayna Picchu at 0730, joining the other 198 whoo secured a pass in a gruelling, single file, step by step climb to the summit. It’s a slow-going process, every photo taken holds up the queue, quite frankly it’s a relief, offering plenty of chances to grab a much needed breath, without feeling guilty about holding up the line. Despite her voiced concerns about not being fit enough, 1 hour after setting off, Jo made it to the top in better shape than me. We avoided the crowds at the first photo opportunity and continued up to the next platform, where we were treated to some stunning vistas of the city, between the closing curtains of mist. Some quiet contemplation on the massive boulders at the summit, and the arrival of the tour groups signalled time to move on. Splitting up, Jo headed back for the city, and consequentially decided her legs weren’t knackered enough from the first climb, and tortured them further with a 50min trek to the sun-gate, on the opposite hill. I opted for the downhill route to Temple of the Moon & Gran Caverna- 2 buildings built into and under natural rock. The trek down is gnarly with and includes descending a couple of dodgy branch ladders that would be well at home in an Indiana Jones flick. The bush gives way to a mild form of jungle, I was pleasantly informed to keep an eye out for a brown snake that’ll kill you within 2 hours (aka stick to the path). The sites are much less visited and still not completely uncovered so make a good place to get away from the crowds, I was fortunate to have the place to myself for a good 40 minutes of peace. Beware, the climb back up is gruelling, any perceptions I had of myself being fit were shattered as I hacked for breath every 5 mins. Again the efforts are rewarded with spectacular views you won’t see elsewhere at the site, and the narrow path offers a vertical drop several thousands of feet below, only centimetres from the outer edge of your right foot.

Atop Wayna Picchu / Much Needed Rest
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Foolishly, I had organised to meet my wife at the highest point of the city, meaning a further hour navigating more steps and a one way system that seemed to refuse allowing me a straight path to the building. (Finding 1 person amongst 2500 is a mission in itself, and Macchu Picchu is a lot bigger than it looks). Our day finished with one last trek to the Incan bridge- essentially a tiny path that clings precariously to a cliff face and appears to continue right along its vertical face. Our day here came to an end far too quickly, the train ride back to Cusco spent between reminiscent conversation, admiring the grand scenery outside, and nursing the quickly seizing legs. As I write this 3 days later, I’m still struggling to make it up or down steps.

Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 04:16 Archived in Peru Tagged ruins city lost picchu macchu Comments (0)

Down to the Sacred Valley

...... And Up The Sacred Mountain

sunny 20 °C

This morning we regrettably had our final breakfast of crepes and coffee at La'Bom,( I hope we return one day the place and staff are just great) and repacked our bags, mine now considerably heavier with an extra 1.5kg of salt from yesterday. Nelly and Mariono picked us up again for our second tour with Maras Adventures, today we are headed for the Sacred Valley, prized by both the Incans and prior inhabitants for its fertile lands and superior crops. Our first stop was Pisac, now famous also for its markets, high above the small town lies the vast terraces. Similar in construction to the ones at Moray, they are built in layers that follow the natural form of the mountain, and contain layers of different materials to allow for drainage, and crop production not normally possible at these altitudes. The town sits at nearly 3000m, a few hundred metres less than Cusco, but we were both still finding ourselves a bit short of breath. Walking through the ruins is a magnificent experience, to see and touch the precisely carved stones, unreplicated since their construction. We had a superb sunny day to explore the site and got their early enough to avid the bulk of the tour groups. The use of angles, curves and notches instead square edges begs the questions of why and how. Clearly they were made to impress and like the other sites in the area, built to last.

Looking down the Sacred Valley / Bloody Tourists / Pisac Terraces / Ruins @ Pisac / Panorama from Pisac
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We skipped the markets and headed for Ollantaytambo, stopping at Urubamba for lunch and passing numerous small ruin sites along the way. Apparently the area is littered with lesser known small villages and dwellings used for rest between the larger towns. Ollantaytambo is lower again at 2800m and the lungs are certainly appreciating the decrease in altitude. The city is 60km northwest of Cusco and again the hillside it sits upon has been transformed into the terraces, with military barracks and religious temples atop, and dwellings for the commoners on the flat. High up on the face of the opposing mountain they built a spectacular grain store which held up to 5 years worth of food. We noted that both here and Pisac were established at the convergence of 2 valleys. The city was never completed and there are carved lintels at the top that were never placed. Both places were overflowing with large tour groups and endless "selfie stick" poses, ( I cant talk we just got one ourselves, perhaps I'm yet to master the technique, something about it just doesn't feel right). A good couple of hours is needed in each place to both make your way through the crowds, and get a decent appreciation for the work and planning involved in the place.

Impressive Stonework/ Jo gets dwarfed / Ollantaytambo town - grain store on mountain / Ollantaytambo / Our Evening Chariot

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We said goodbye to Mariono, our wonderful yet slightly erratic driver, and Nelly the guide at the train station for Aguas Calientes, gateway to Macchu Picchu. We stored the bags at the station and walked uphill into town and found a pizza joint with all day happy hour on pisco sours. Full bellied and slightly tipsy, we hailed a tuktuk for the train station, destination Aguas Calientes, gateway to Macchu Picchu.

Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 04:09 Archived in Peru Tagged ruins valley sacred picchu macchu ollanataytambo Comments (0)

Friday 13th

Lucky For Us


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The problem with booking online is you never know exactly what you're going to get.
Due to our time restrictions we decided to book everything in advance this trip (not our usual style I know, but its good to try new things), and based most of our decisions around tripadvisor reviews, numerous online stories about dodgy operators in Peru. I chose MarasAdventures in Cusco for: 1) Great reviews, 2) They support a few community programmes with profits, and 3) They were flexible with the tours.
As we were finishing another superb hostel breakfast, Nelly shows up early, handed us a receipt and collected final payment. She walks us down the alley to an early 90's, unmarked corolla, introduces us to Mario and Mariono, and promptly waves goodbye. I could tell what Jo was thinking before I looked at her, a contemplating frown doing very little to hide the kidnap stories currently going through her mind.
I try not to cast judgement on a place before experiencing it for myself, but our trip out of Cusco matched perfectly an image I've always had of South America. 2 gringos sitting in the back of a clapped out vehicle, windows down to avoid suffocating on our own exhaust fumes, passing villages of adobe bricks, the walls emblazoned with hand painted campaign slogans. Almost too perfect. Oh yeah, plus the armed police stop we passed in Poroy, apparently there was a stickup in a restaurant last week and 5 people are still on the run. (violent crime is rare in Cusco, the streets feel safer than at home).
Anyway we made it to Maras, enter the quad bikes. A quick practice run around the town square to break 10years of habit driving on the left and we were off. What better way to explore the natural beauty of a place than to drown the silence with an ATV. While I felt a bit like a wanker tourist driving past the local farmers, those feelings were vastly overshadowed by the thrill of blatting through the open countryside, backdropped by the dominating peaks and steep valleys of the Andes.
Mario grew up in the region and is a walking encyclopaedia, speaking passionately about the history, and his proud Quechuan heritage. Our first stop was the terraces at Moray , which he explained were a laboratory of sorts for the Incans. The site was specifically chosen at the base of a volcano and had access to water for irrigation. Different soils were brought in from all over the region and scientists have discovered distinctive temperature differences in each of the terraces. This allowed them to gradually acclimatise seeds in each successive ring, essentially enabling plants to grow at altitudes and temperatures they were
previously unable to survive at. The pattern is thought to represent male and female reproductive organs. Quite fitting considering the nature of the place.

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Gearing up for some offroad fun / Moray Terraces

Back on the bikes and headed for Salineras, we stopped briefly at a beautiful Spanish church currently undergoing refurbishment. The Spaniards built it 2km out of the city of Maras, after the invasion they did not wish to attend mass with the Quechuan locals. The weather which had so graciously held out for the morning, opened up and came pissing down. I was already wet from testing the depth of mud puddles and we decided to continue on. On the final stretch of dirt road we were treated to a lightning show across the agriculture fields. We waited out the rain in a small church at Salineras, Mario explaining that the mine is owned by a collective of 350 local families, they pray both to traditional Incan deities and the Catholic God, keeping all bases covered for their successful harvests. I had very little interest in coming here but found it absolutely fascinating. It's almost unique in the world, at 11,000ft with no known salt water for miles, the origin of its salt is a mystery. A small underground creek flows from the volcano and emerges warm here, where since pre-Incan times it has been collected in man-made pools, natural evaporation leaves behind a highly prized salt containing about 80 minerals. It has built on by the Incans, Spaniards and Quechuans, there are now 4000 salt pans that produce roughly 200kgs each of salt per year, each harvest taking roughly a month.

Rain coming down the Sacred Valley / Jo & Mario / Salt Pans / Church

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By now we are considering ourselves 4wd pros, and I've caught Jo fishtailing down the dirt road straights. After lunch at a local diner in Maras (6 Soles each, you cant go wrong) it was sadly time to hang up the helmets and back in the car towards Chincheros. I'd booked us in for ziplining, under the impression you kinda scurried along a cable, Jo had it sussed as a flying fox for adults, its something in the middle, you kinda sit in a harness and race along suspended from a cable, but you have to brake yourself . The first two sent us 100 or so metres out over a gully, no worries. The 3rd and 4th had about a minute of lining, and came with suggestions from the instructors to try positions such as "superman/woman" and "monkey". Sure, we said. Arms out in front, don't touch the cable and don't forget to open your eyes, soaring along like a bird 200 odd feet off the ground with views down the sacred valley for miles. Yes there was a flew "clench" moments while hanging upside down.
Aftershot
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Our final stop for the day was Chincheros, an Incan town that sits higher than Cusco. There's a beautiful church here that the Spaniards built directly on top of the Incans most sacred Temple of the Sun, (as happened in other towns too during invasion). Inside the ceiling features original paintings, and elaborately carved pieces adorn the walls, reaching to the roof. The real highlight is the original stonework of foundation, the walls and terraces that line the plaza outside, pieces both curved and angled interlocking precisely with no room to slide a piece of paper between. Pure craftsmanship, massive structures and testament to its quality that has stood the test of time. Here Mario explained to us more about the Incans, how Pachacuti's vision and direction over 70years as king produced the marvels that still stand today. How bickering between successive rulers, the arrival of the Spaniards and there diseases diminished the tribes. How they fought bravely for their lands and the capture of the last Incan signalled the demise of an empire that had risen to greatness never before seen on Earth, and fallen in only a few hundred years.

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Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 04:21 Archived in Peru Tagged history church cusco maras moray incan Comments (0)

Cusco Baby!!!

We Made It!!

semi-overcast 18 °C
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Jetlagged, exhausted, and with the quickly dawning realisation that speaking a few words of a language is vastly different to partaking in a conversation of it, we hailed a cab from Cusco airport. Trick for new players- the cabbie's fares OUTSIDE the terminal can be halved. Jo had been gripping the Jesus handle for dear life this morning when Alberto drove us through Santiago, but old Alberto had nothing on this guy. We almost went nose to nose with a mini bus exiting the airport and there was no improvement after that. I thought driving in Malta was manic, there's constant honking, flashing of lights ( which means the opposite of NZ here), and traffic cops on almost every corner, half of them packing heat.

We made it to San Blas, and with a short walk we were at our new digs. La Bo'heme is a quaint backpackers with an awesome staff. There's a small courtyard surrounded by the rooms, all off the street so super quiet too. Perfect for an ageing couple such as ourselves. Sergio made us Coca tea for the altitude and explained in-depth the best places to eat, we are planning to tick all of them off. A light dinner down the street at Pachamama, we had the restaurant to ourselves, Good hearty food and $8 each for 2 courses plus drinks.

courtyard @ La Bo'heme
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Our first decent sleep in days, crepes and good coffee for breakfast courtesy of the hostel= bring on Cusco!! We're both suffering a bit from the altitude (11,000feet will do that to a couple of kiwis) so we set off to explore Cusco. After 2 hours I'm in love with this city,and standing under the cathedral in Plaza de Armas incites visions of conquistadors and sacrifices, and the incredible Incan stonework that lines the walls takes you back even further. The people are beautiful and friendly, even the hawkers are respectful, and the police presence in town makes it feel very safe. ( With the exception of a very small child, who took a dislike to Jo and proceeded to attack her legs with a book) . We made our way to the massive San Blas market, we're going to have to go back as we missed the "witches section", and found ourselves the centre of the University while looking for the museum- we ever did find it but the uni was lovely. Even the stray dogs do their own thing, using only the footpaths to walk on, sleeping in the square where the people are, not scavenging or barking. And for mongrels they look like nice dogs.
We returned to the hostel armed with colorful pressies for the kids (wont tell you what cos I know you're both reading this), significantly improved Spanish AND Negotiation skills, and a much lighter wallet.
Lunch @ Mutu was Creviche - local delicacy, trout done in andean lime chilli and garlic, smashed down with a pisco sour, and dinner at Pachapapa on Carmen Alto. This place was highly recommended in Cusco. Alpaca steaks in yellow chilli sauce, and a wood fired pizza cooked in the oven in the courtyard. All washed down with some potent pisco cocktails.

Day1 Cusco Highlights
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Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 22:46 Archived in Peru Tagged buildings history city cusco inca stonework Comments (0)

Touchdown!!!

Christchurch to Cusco


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I had grand plans to make full use of the 12hrs between Auckland and Santiago as serious swot time for my Spanish. My vision of stepping off the plane and engaging the first local I saw with fluent conversation were sadly shattered as I managed only forty minutes of lesson time. I did however create a stonking music playlist including some wonderfully nostalgic tracks from Queen.

After collecting our belongings from customs we were greeted by 2, yes 2, concierges bearing our names on their placards. As we are backpacking this trip we decided a 2 vehicle convoy would be much too rock star for us and settled on Maximillian to take us into our hotel. What an eye opener. I was not expecting to see so many slums and 'project block' style dwellings on the drive. The river was littered with, well litter, whole trailer loads dumped down its banks. "You're a long way from home Dorothy" springs to mind. Santiago didn't do a lot for me in the brief time we were there, I felt it had the underlying waft of a place with too many people in too small a spot. Fajita Express did an epic feed of burritos and the most almighty onion rings I have ever set my eyes upon.

We departed Santiago for Lima the next morning, being removed from the plane due to engine fault (thank you LAN for discovering that whilst still on the tarmac) and flew out with a majestic view of the snow capped Andes dominating the skyline. The delay in Lima caused a rush to catch the flight to Cusco, but as soon as our asses hit the seat Jo finally relaxed. No more planes or airports for 3 weeks, let the holiday begin.

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This guy didn't see the funny side

Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 21:54 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

Preparing for Take-off

"Es muy Bueno" (It's Very Good) but my spanish is not

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Honeymooning in Malta 2010

I have long been under the impression that my dear mother was the epitome of early preparations. The title has been cast into question recently however, as my beloved Jo now proves herself a worthy opponent as a powerhouse of pre-organisation. As I looked upon her assortment of lotions, remedies, and medical supplies (all neatly packed in airline approved containers), I had nothing but admiration. There will be no possible disease, affliction or injury on the journey ahead that this woman does not have a pre-emptive solution for.

The plan for our sub-equatorial South American adventure has been all but finalised. What began months ago as a open itinerary with merely a beginning and end at Santiago, collapsed as the exciting yet stressful months of brainstorming, researching, planning, re-planning & de-planning, revealed that we simply cant do it all in 3 weeks. So, we researched some more, we argued a bit, and we accused each of being more stubborn than the other. BUT, we managed to make agreeable decisions, and in our true Woods-style, we produced a well-honed schedule, tightly packing the best of 3 countries into an even tighter 3 weeks.

Jo- Meticulous Researcher and Class A Bargain Hunter. Undoes her own plans though worrying about what could go wrong. Loves fine-dining, her family and laughing til she cries.
Marty- Believes planning is overrated. Loves his family & food in general.

Kid-free (MASSIVE THANKS to grandparents) in South America.

Nice shot of Jo's ass. Climbing to Santorini 2010
801

801

Posted by 2kiwicompaneros 21:55 Archived in New Zealand Comments (0)

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